relieved the monotony of green. These crimson tassels deftly strung
on thread or fibres, are much used by the natives for their leis, or
garlands. The ti tree (Cordyline terminalis) which abounds also on
the lava, is most valuable. They cook their food wrapped up in its
leaves, the porous root when baked, has the taste and texture of
molasses candy, and when distilled yields a spirit, and the leaves
form wrappings for fish, hard poi, and other edibles. Occasionally
a clump of tufted coco-palms, or of the beautiful candle-nut rose
among the smaller growths. To our left a fringe of palms marked the
place where the lava and the ocean met, while, on our right, we were
seldom out of sight of the dense timber belt, with its fringe of
tree-ferns and bananas, which girdles Mauna Loa.

The track, on the whole, is a perpetual upward scramble; for, though
the ascent is so gradual, that it is only by the increasing coolness
of the atmosphere that the increasing elevation is denoted, it is
really nearly 4,000 feet in thirty miles. Only strong, sure-footed,
well-shod horses can undertake this journey, for it is a constant
scramble over rocks, going up or down natural steps, or cautiously
treading along ledges. Most of the track is quite legible owing to
the vegetation having been worn off the lava, but the rock itself
hardly shows the slightest abrasion.

Upa had indicated that we were to stop for rest at the "Half Way
House;" and, as I was hardly able to sit on my horse owing to
fatigue, I consoled myself by visions of a comfortable sofa and a
cup of tea. It was with real dismay that I found the reality to
consist of a grass hut, much out of repair, and which, bad as it
was, was locked. Upa said we had ridden so slowly that it would be
dark before we reached the volcano, and only allowed us to rest on