I suffered intensely from pain and stiffness, and was induced to try
a true Hawaiian remedy, which is not only regarded as a cure for all
physical ills, but as the greatest of physical luxuries; i.e. lomi-
lomi. This is a compound of pinching, pounding, and squeezing, and
Moi Moi, the fine old Hawaiian nurse in this family, is an adept in
the art. She found out by instinct which were the most painful
muscles, and subjected them to a doubly severe pounding, laughing
heartily at my groans. However, I must admit that my arms and
shoulders were almost altogether relieved before the lomi-lomi was
finished. The first act of courtesy to a stranger in a native house
is this, and it is varied in many ways. Now and then the patient
lies face downwards, and children execute a sort of dance upon his
spine. {95} Formerly, the chiefs, when not engaged in active
pursuits, exacted lomi-lomi as a constant service from their
followers.

A number of Hilo folk came in during the evening to inquire how we
had sped, and for news of the volcano. I think the proximity of
Kilauea gives sublimity to Hilo, and helps to lift conversation out
of common-place ruts. It is no far-off spectacle, but an immediate
source of wonder and apprehension, for it rocks the village with
earthquakes, and renders the construction of stone houses and
plastered ceilings impossible. It rolls vast tidal waves with
infinite destruction on the coast, and of late years its fiery
overflowings have twice threatened this paradise with annihilation.
Then there is the dead volcano of Mauna Loa, from whose resurrection
anything may be feared. Even last night a false rumour that a light
was to be seen on its summit brought everyone out, but it was only
an increased glare from the pit of Hale-mau-mau. It is most