The Venetian does not, like the Spaniard, place his house at your
disposition, and, having extended this splendid invitation, consider the
duties of hospitality fulfilled; he does not appear to think you want to
make use of his house for social purposes, preferring himself the caffe,
and finding home and comfort there, rather than under his own roof. "What
caffe do you frequent? Ah! so do I. We shall meet often there." This is
frequently your new acquaintance's promise of friendship. And one may even
learn to like the social footing on which people meet at the caffe, as
well as that of the parlor or drawing-room. I could not help thinking one
evening at Padua, while we sat talking with some pleasant Paduans in one
of the magnificent saloons of the Caffe Pedrocchi, that I should like to
go there for society, if I could always find it there, much better than to
private houses. There is far greater ease and freedom, more elegance and
luxury, and not the slightest weight of obligation laid upon you for the
gratification your friend's company has given you. One has not to be a
debtor in the sum of a friend's outlay for house, servants, refreshments,
and the like. Nowhere in Europe is the senseless and wasteful American
custom of _treating_ known; and nothing could be more especially
foreign to the frugal instincts and habits of the Italians. So, when a
party of friends at a caffe eat or drink, each one pays for what he takes,
and pecuniarily, the enjoyment of the evening is uncostly or not,
according as each prefers. Of course no one sits down in such a place
without calling for something; but I have frequently seen people respond
to this demand of custom by ordering a glass of water with anise, at the
expense of two soldi. A cup of black coffee, for five soldi, secures a
chair, a table, and as many journals as you like, for as long time as you
like.

I say, a stranger may learn to like the life of the caffe,--that of the