heights; in the stream are huge boulders round which the water whirls and
hisses, sending its spray high over the rugged banks, in every nook and
crevice of which grow long ferns and graceful wild-flowers. Then follows
a long smooth stretch of water with grassy wooded shores, and through the
trees one catches distant glimpses of yet wider and more beautiful falls
than those just passed.

We breakfasted at Braynor at nine o'clock, and heard with pleasure that
we had forty-five minutes wherein to satisfy exhausted nature. Everything
was delicious, and we should have done the fare even greater justice had
we known that it was the last good meal we should obtain for thirty-six
hours. When we returned to the car we were greatly amused by an
irrepressible fellow-traveller, whose over-politeness and loquacity
savoured of a morning dram or two.

He insisted on pointing out the exact spot--marked by a tall,
rough-looking post with a cross-tree on it, that stood near the
rails--where two Indians had been "lynched" for some crime by the
citizens; which exploit being regarded with _pardonable_ pride by
them, was boasted of to travellers accordingly. Volumes might be written
on Yankee oppression of the poor Red-skins, and yet leave the disgraceful
story but half told.

Our train was crowded, and during the morning two rather well-dressed
black-eyed men came on board. The conductor told us they were the pests
of that part of the road--three card-monte men--and that in spite of
being carefully warned many travellers, especially amongst the well-to-do
farmer class emigrating to Manitoba, were daily fleeced by them, there
being no apparent redress, as they are sharp enough to evade any direct
breach of the law. These men succeeded in drawing two boys of eighteen or