The _Minnesota_ had stopped at the old custom-house wharf, the bulk
of her freight being for that end of the town, and we had to traverse the
entire length of Winnipeg to reach Mrs. T----, who had kindly invited us
to remain with her until Mrs. C---- could find a suitable house. Up
narrow, rickety planks, through mud and mire, past two log-houses fast
falling into ruin--which were pointed out as having been the only houses
in Winnipeg, besides the Fort Garry settlement, ten years before, and
within three years used as custom-houses--we made our way to the broad
main street. This is lined on each side by large, handsome shops, one or
two banks, the new post-office in course of erection, and the large
square town-hall, also unfinished. Then follow the new custom-house, land
office, Canada Pacific Railway offices (square white brick buildings),
and the round turret-like bastions of Fort Garry, [Footnote: Fort Garry
stands at the confluence of the Assineboine with the Red River.] with its
massive wooden palisades, and low log buildings at the extreme end of the
street, where it terminates at the mouth of the Assineboine. We had to
cross a few yards of prairie in order to reach Mrs. T----'s house,
formerly the officers' quarters of the mounted police force, now removed
to Battleford and Fort McLeod. We were received very cordially, a welcome
being extended to me, although a total stranger.

The first thing that struck me in Winnipeg was the mud. I had heard that
Red River mud was the worst in the world, and I now for the first time
realized how bad mud could be. Not only was the roadway so soft that
every turn of a wheel loaded it inches deep with the sticky compound, and
made it so heavy that the driver had frequently to stop and clear his
wheels with a stick, but, trodden from the crossings into the side-walks,
it covered them with a slimy mixture very difficult to walk on. From the
windows I could see people slipping and sliding about so much, that any
one ignorant of the cause might, have attributed their unsteadiness to