But I don't think you would find Coblentz, where we were obliged to
take up our night's lodging, much to your taste. 'Tis a mean, dirty
assemblage of plastered houses, striped with paint, and set off with
wooden galleries, in the beautiful taste of St. Giles's. Above, on a
rock, stands the palace of the Elector, which seems to be remarkable
for nothing but situation. I did not bestow many looks on this
structure whilst ascending the mountain across which our road to
Mayence conducted us.

July 12th.--Having attained the summit, we discovered a vast,
irregular range of country, and advancing, found ourselves amongst
downs bounded by forests and purpled with thyme. This sort of
prospect extending for several leagues, I walked on the turf, and
inhaled with avidity the fresh gales that blew over its herbage, till
I came to a steep slope overgrown with privet and a variety of
luxuriant shrubs in blossom; there reposing beneath its shade, I
gathered flowers, listened to the bees, observed their industry, and
idled away a few minutes with great fascination. A cloudless sky and
bright sunshine made me rather loth to move on; but the charms of the
landscape, increasing every instant, drew me forward.

I had not gone far, before a winding valley discovered itself, shut
in by rocks and mountains clothed to their very summits with the
thickest woods. A broad river, flowing at the base of the cliffs,
reflected the impending vegetation, and looked so calm and glassy
that I was determined to be better acquainted with it. For this
purpose we descended by a zigzag path into the vale, and making the
best of our way on the banks of the Lune (for so is the river
called), came suddenly upon the town of Ems, famous in mineral story;
where finding very good lodgings, we took up our abode, and led an