clothed in dark forests and almost perpendicular, that was absolutely
to be surmounted before we could arrive at Wallersee. No house, not
even a shed appearing, we were forced to ascend the peak, and
penetrate these awful groves.

Great praise is due to the directors of the roads across them, which,
considering their situation, are wonderfully fine. Mounds of stone
support the passage in some places; and, in others, it is hewn with
incredible labour through the solid rock. Beeches and pines of a
hundred feet high, darken the way with their gigantic branches,
casting a chill around, and diffusing a woody odour. As we advanced,
in the thick shade, amidst the spray of torrents, and heard their
loud roar in the chasm beneath, I could scarcely help thinking myself
transported to the Grande Chartreuse; and began to conceive hopes of
once more beholding St. Bruno. {140} But, though that venerable
father did not vouchsafe an apparition, or call to me again from the
depths of the dells, he protected his votary from nightly perils, and
brought us to the banks of Wallersee Lake. We saw lights gleam upon
its shores, which directed us to a cottage where we reposed after our
toils, and were soon lulled to sleep by the fall of distant waters.

July 26th.--The sun rose many hours before me, and when I got up was
spangling the surface of the lake, which expands between steeps of
wood, crowned by lofty crags and pinnacles. We had an opportunity of
contemplating this bold assemblage as we travelled on the banks of
the Meer, where it forms a bay sheltered by impending forests; the
water, tinged by their reflection with a deep cerulean, calm and
tranquil. Mountains of pine and beech rising above, close every
outlet; and, no village or spire peeping out of the foliage, impress
an idea of more than European solitude. I could contentedly have