my whole progress. Before every village is a wealthy dunghill, not
at all offensive, because but seldom disturbed; and there they bask
in the sun, and wallow at their ease, till the hour of death and
bacon arrives, when capacious paunches await them. If I may judge
from the healthy looks and reposed complexions of the Flemings, they
have every reason to expect a peaceful tomb.

But it is high time to leave our swinish moralities behind us, and to
jog on towards Antwerp. More rich pastures, more ample fields of
grain, more flourishing willows!--a boundless plain before this city,
dotted with cows and flowers, from whence its spires and quaint roofs
are seen to advantage. The pale colours of the sky, and a few gleams
of watery sunshine, gave a true Flemish cast to the scenery, and
everything appeared so consistent, that I had not a shadow of
pretence to think myself asleep.

After crossing a broad, noble river, edged on one side by beds of
osiers beautifully green, and on the other by gates and turrets
preposterously ugly, we came through several streets of lofty houses
to our inn. Its situation in the "Place de Mer," a vast open space
surrounded by buildings above buildings, and roof above roof, has
something striking and singular. A tall gilt crucifix of bronze,
sculptured by some famous artist, adds to its splendour; and the tops
of some tufted trees, seen above a line of magnificent hotels, have
no bad effect in the perspective.

It was almost dusk when we arrived; and as I am very partial to new
objects discovered by this dubious visionary light, I went
immediately a-rambling. Not a sound disturbed my meditations; there
were no groups of squabbling children or talkative old women. The