I clambered up several of these crags,


"fra gli odoriferi ginepri,"


to gather the flowers I have just mentioned, and found them
deliciously scented. Fratillarias, and the most gorgeous flies, many
of which I here noticed for the first time, were fluttering about and
expanding their wings to the sun. There is no describing the numbers
I beheld, nor their gaily varied colouring. I could not find in my
heart to destroy their felicity; to scatter their bright plumage and
snatch them for ever from the realms of light and flowers. Had I
been less compassionate, I should have gained credit with that
respectable corps, the torturers of butterflies; and might, perhaps,
have enriched their cabinets with some unknown captives. However, I
left them imbibing the dews of heaven, in free possession of their
native rights; and having changed horses at Tremolano, entered at
length my long-desired Italy.

The pass is rocky and tremendous, guarded by a fortress (Covalo), in
possession of the Empress Queen, and only fit, one should think, to
be inhabited by her eagles. There is no attaining this exalted hold
but by the means of a cord let down many fathoms by the soldiers, who
live in dens and caverns, which serve also as arsenals, and magazines
for powder; whose mysteries I declined prying into, their approach
being a little too aerial for my earthly frame. A black vapour,
tinging their entrance, completed the terror of the prospect, which I
shall never forget.