twined round with plants forming a green festoon springing from two
large vases of orange-trees placed at each end. Here I established
myself to enjoy the cool, and observe, as well as the dusk would
permit, the variety of figures shooting by in their gondolas.

As night approached, innumerable tapers glimmered through the awnings
before the windows. Every boat had its lantern, and the gondolas
moving rapidly along were followed by tracks of light, which gleamed
and played upon the waters. I was gazing at these dancing fires when
the sounds of music were wafted along the canals, and as they grew
louder and louder, an illuminated barge, filled with musicians,
issued from the Rialto, and stopping under one of the palaces, began
a serenade, which was clamorous and suspended all conversation in the
galleries and porticos; till, rowing slowly away, it was heard no
more. The gondoliers catching the air, imitated its cadences, and
were answered by others at a distance, whose voices, echoed by the
arch of the bridge, acquired a plaintive and interesting tone. I
retired to rest, full of the sound; and long after I was asleep, the
melody seemed to vibrate in my ear.

August 3rd.--It was not five o'clock before I was aroused by a loud
din of voices and splashing of water under my balcony. Looking out,
I beheld the grand canal so entirely covered with fruits and
vegetables, on rafts and in barges, that I could scarcely distinguish
a wave. Loads of grapes, peaches, and melons arrived, and
disappeared in an instant, for every vessel was in motion; and the
crowds of purchasers hurrying from boat to boat, formed one of the
liveliest pictures imaginable. Amongst the multitudes, I remarked a
good many whose dress and carriage announced something above the
common rank; and upon inquiry I found they were noble Venetians, just