SEPTEMBER.

As this Month produces great numbers of Mushrooms in the Fields, it is now
chiefly that we ought to provide ourselves with them for making of Ketchup,
and Mushroom Gravey: And it is also a proper Season for pickling them.
Indeed, where we have Mushroom-Beds, we may do these Works at any time of
the Year. It is to be remark'd, that the best Mushrooms have their Gills of
a Flesh Colour, even while the Mushrooms are in button; and as they tend to
spread in their Head, or to open their Cap, the Gills turn redder, till at
length, when their Heads are fully spread open, they will become quite
black. These large-flap Mushrooms are still good for stewing or broiling,
so long as they have no Worms in them, and the Gills are then in the best
state for making Ketchup, or Mushroom-Gravey; altho' the red Gills will do,
but the smaller Buttons are what most People covet for Pickling.

In the gathering of Mushrooms, we are sure to meet with some of all sizes;
the very small for pickling, the large Buttons for stewing or making
Mushroom-Loaves, and Mushroom-Gravey, and the large Flaps for broiling or
making of Ragous, or stewing, and Ketchup: therefore to follow the common
way, we should make two or three Parcels of them.

The cleaning of Mushrooms, or preparing them for any of the above Uses,
will afford us nothing but what is useful; the Parings should be saved by
themselves, to be wash'd, towards the making of what is called Mushroom
Gravey; the Gills must be saved by themselves for making either Ketchup, or
Mushroom-Gravey; and the Parts towards the Roots, and the Roots themselves,
must be kept to dry in the Sun, or a warm Room, to raise Mushrooms from,
especially if they are of a large good sort that has red Gills, for those
which have white Gills, prove oftentimes unwholesome, and are apt to turn
yellow when they are cut and put in Water: however, some People eat of this