windows taking up all its walls, and with a flat roof and eaves. This
some one straight from the south must have put on as a memory of his
wanderings.

The barn-transept is crumbling old grey stone, the Romanesque porches
are red, like Strasburg, the Gothic apse is old white as our
cathedrals are, the modern ambulatory is of pure white stone just
quarried, and thus colours as well as shapes are mingled up and
different in this astonishing building.

I drew it from that point of view in the market-place to the
north-east which shows most of these contrasts at once, and you must
excuse the extreme shakiness of the sketch, for it was taken as best I
could on an apple-cart with my book resting on the apples--there was
no other desk. Nor did the apple-seller mind my doing it, but on the
contrary gave me advice and praise saying such things as--

'Excellent; you have caught the angle of the apse ... Come now, darken
the edge of that pillar ... I fear you have made the tower a little
confused,' and so forth.

I offered to buy a few apples off him, but he gave me three instead,
and these, as they incommoded me, I gave later to a little child.

Indeed the people of Epinal, not taking me for a traveller but simply
for a wandering poor man, were very genial to me, and the best good
they did me was curing my lameness. For, seeing an apothecary's shop
as I was leaving the town, I went in and said to the apothecary--

'My knee has swelled and is very painful, and I have to walk far;