the sum which he had doubtless idealized as a just reward for his
half-day's service when he first told me that it should be what I
pleased. We parted with the affection of fellow-citizens in a strange
monarchical country, his English growing less and less as the train
delayed, and his eyes watering more and more as with tears of
com-patriotic affection. At the moment I could have envied that German
princess her ability to make sure of his future companionship at the low
cost of fifty pesetas a day; and even now, when my affection has had
time to wane, I cannot do less than commend him to any future visitor at
Burgos, as in the last degree amiable, and abounding in surprises of
intelligence and unexpected feats of reliability.




IV

THE VARIETY OF VALLADOLID


When you leave Burgos at 3.29 of a passably sunny afternoon you are not
at once aware of the moral difference between the terms of your approach
and those of your departure. You are not changing your earth or your sky
very much, but it is not long before you are sensible of a change of
mind which insists more and more. There is the same long ground-swell of
wheat-fields, but yesterday you were followed in vision by the
loveliness of the frugal and fertile Biscayan farms, and to-day this
vision has left you, and you are running farther and farther into the
economic and topographic waste of Castile. Yesterday there were more or
less agreeable shepherdesses in pleasant plaids scattered over the