about the aisles, and looked at the tombs and monuments,--the oldest of
which was that of some nameless abbot, with a staff and mitre half
obliterated from his tomb, which was under a shallow arch on one side of
the cathedral. There were also marbles on the walls, and lettered stones
in the pavement under our feet; but chiefly, if not entirely, of modern
date. We lunched at the Royal Hotel, and then walked round the city
walls, also crossing the bridge of one great arch over the Dee, and
penetrating as far into Wales as the entrance of the Marquis of
Westminster's Park at Eaton. It was, I think, the most lovely day as
regards weather that I have seen in England.

I passed, to-day, a man chanting a ballad in the street about a recent
murder, in a voice that had innumerable cracks in it, and was most
lugubrious. The other day I saw a man who was reading in a loud voice
what seemed to be an account of the late riots and loss of life in Wigan.
He walked slowly along the street as he read, surrounded by a small crowd
of men, women, and children; and close by his elbow stalked a policeman,
as if guarding against a disturbance.


November 14th.--There is a heavy dun fog on the river and over the city
to-day, the very gloomiest atmosphere that ever I was acquainted with.
On the river the steamboats strike gongs or ring bells to give warning of
their approach. There are lamps burning in the counting-rooms and
lobbies of the warehouses, and they gleam distinctly through the windows.

The other day, at the entrance of the market-house, I saw a woman sitting
in a small hand-wagon, apparently for the purpose of receiving alms.
There was no attendant at hand; but I noticed that one or two persons who
passed by seemed to inquire whether she wished her wagon to be moved.