was the carver [83]. So that carving began now to be practised, and
the proper terms devised. Wynken de Worde printed a _Book of
Kervinge_, A. 1508, wherein the said terms are registered [84]. 'The
use of _forks_ at table, says Dr. Percy, did not prevail in England
land till the reign of James I. as we learn from a remarkable passage
in _Coryat_ [85]'; the passage is indeed curious, but too long to be
here transcribed, where brevity is so much in view; wherefore I shall
only add, that forks are not now used in some parts of Spain [86].
But then it may be said, what becomes of the old English hospitaliiy
in this case, the _roast-beef of Old England_, so much talked of? I
answer, these bulky and magnificent dishes must have been the product
of later reigns, perhaps of queen Elizabeth's time, since it is plain
that in the days of Rich. II. our ancestors lived much after the
French fashion. As to hospitality, the households of our Nobles were
immense, officers, retainers, and servants, being entertained almost
without number; but then, as appears from the Northumberland Book,
and afterwards from the household establisliment of the prince of
Wales, A. 1610, the individuals, or at least small parties, had their
_quantum_, or ordinary, served out, where any good oeconomy was kept,
apart to themselves [87]. Again, we find in our Roll, that great
quantities of the respective viands of the hashes, were often made at
once, as No. 17, _Take hennes or conynges_. 24, _Take hares_. 29,
_Take pygges_. And 31, _Take gees_, &c. So that hospitality and
plentiful housekeeping could just as well be maintained this way, as
by the other of cumbrous unwieldy messes, as much as a man could
carry.

As the messes and sauces are so complex, and the ingredients
consequently so various, it seems necessary that a word should be
spoken concerning the principal of them, and such as are more