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Wanderings in South America by Charles Waterton
page 20 of 272 (07%)
broken by the rushing waters.

This is the general appearance of the fall from the level of the water
below to where the river is smooth and quiet above. It must be remembered
that this is during the periodical rains. Probably, in the dry season, it
puts on a very different appearance. There is no perpendicular fall of
water of any consequence throughout it, but the dreadful roaring and
rushing of the torrent, down a long rocky and moderately sloping channel,
has a fine effect; and the stranger returns well pleased with what he has
seen. No animal, nor craft of any kind, could stem this downward flood. In
a few moments the first would be killed, the second dashed in pieces.

The Indians have a path alongside of it, through the forest, where
prodigious crabwood trees grow. Up this path they drag their canoes and
launch them into the river above; and on their return bring them down the
same way.

About two hours below this fall is the habitation of an Acoway chief called
Sinkerman. At night you hear the roaring of the fall from it. It is
pleasantly situated on the top of a sand-hill. At this place you have the
finest view the River Demerara affords: three tiers of hills rise in slow
gradation, one above the other, before you, and present a grand and
magnificent scene, especially to him who has been accustomed to a level
country.

Here, a little after midnight, on the first of May, was heard a most
strange and unaccountable noise: it seemed as though several regiments were
engaged and musketry firing with great rapidity. The Indians, terrified
beyond description, left their hammocks and crowded all together like sheep
at the approach of the wolf. There were no soldiers within three or four
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