grandeur which he will never forget. He may travel far and near and see
nothing like them. On looking at them through a glass the summit of the
southern one appeared crowned with bushes. The one to the north was quite
bare. The Indians have it from their ancestors that they are the abode of
an evil genius, and they pass in the river below with a reverential awe.

In about seven hours from these stupendous sons of the hill you leave the
Essequibo and enter the River Apoura-poura, which falls into it from the
south. The Apoura-poura is nearly one-third the size of the Demerara at
Stabroek. For two days you see nothing but level ground richly clothed in
timber. You leave the Siparouni to the right hand, and on the third day
come to a little hill. The Indians have cleared about an acre of ground on
it and erected a temporary shed. If it be not intended for provision-ground
alone, perhaps the next white man who travels through these remote wilds
will find an Indian settlement here.

Two days after leaving this you get to a rising ground on the western bank
where stands a single hut, and about half a mile in the forest there are a
few more: some of them square and some round, with spiral roofs.

Here the fish called pacou is very plentiful: it is perhaps the fattest and
most delicious fish in Guiana. It does not take the hook, but the Indians
decoy it to the surface of the water by means of the seeds of the crab-wood
tree and then shoot it with an arrow.

You are now within the borders of Macoushia, inhabited by a different tribe
of people called Macoushi Indians, uncommonly dexterous in the use of the
blow-pipe and famous for their skill in preparing the deadly vegetable-
poison commonly called wourali.