at home, and I am sure we shall settle down happily. We find Tristan far
more beautiful than we expected; the mountains seem very near and are most
imposing, and the light on them at times is very beautiful. Little
rivulets are to be seen coursing down close to the houses. They have been
diverted from the main stream--known as the "Big Watering." We have one
just outside the back door, and not many yards away the Big Watering
itself.

_Good Friday, April_ 13.--We got up at 6.30. Ellen and I are sleeping in
our deck-chairs in the sitting-room. Graham goes out first thing to fetch
water for our baths, as we have not enough utensils to lay in a store the
night before. Life is delightfully primitive here.

A man named John Glass is to be the church clerk, and he appeared about
eight o'clock to carry the harmonium up to the church; service was at
10.30. No one went into church until we arrived; groups of men and women
were waiting on the common in their Sunday clothes, the women looking so
picturesque in bright garments. The church room was packed. We learnt
afterwards that every man, woman and child was present except old Caroline
Swain, who is an invalid; we were seventy-four in all. We had a very
simple and short service, Graham explaining as he went along what we were
to do. Every one was most reverent and all knelt. There were four hymns,
and how they enjoyed the singing of them! It was surprising how well they
got on. The women all said, "Good-morning, marm," as they entered the
church. At first it was difficult to understand what they said, but now I
am more able to do so. On our way home we met Betty Cotton, who said,
"It's the best 'Sunday' I have had since Mr. Dodgson left." She is a dear
old body, and is making it her mission to look after us.

[Illustration: THE WATERFALL]