way to get on is to trespass as much as possible upon the rights of that
easy-going neighbour called the Public.

The hills between the two valleys were, for the most part, wooded with
natural forest, with a dense undergrowth of heather and gorse. As soon as
we began to descend towards the Dronne, the great southern broom, six or
eight feet high, was seen in splendid flower upon the roadside banks. We
found the Dronne at the village of Tocane St. Apre, and we launched the
boat below the mill about half a mile farther down-stream. Then, having
put on board a knapsack containing clothes, a valise filled chiefly with
provisions, several bottles of wine, one of rum (a safer spirit in France
than some others), and another of black coffee, made very strong, so that
it should last a long time, we took our first lunch in the boat, in the
cool shade of some old alders.

The wine had been already heated by the sun during the journey, but the
means of cooling it somewhat was near at hand. We hitched a couple of
bottles to the roots of the alders, with their necks just out of the water.
The young peasant who had driven us was invited to share our meal, and the
horse was left at the mill with a good feed of oats to comfort him and help
him to forget all the horrible suspicions that the boat had caused him. The
meal was simple enough, for we had brought no luxurious fare with us;
but the feeling of freedom and new adventure, the low song of the stream
running over the gravel in the shallows, the peace and beauty of the little
cove under the alders, made it more delightful than a sumptuous one with
other surroundings.

Everything went as smoothly as the deep water where the boat was chained,
until the spirit-lamp was lighted for warming the coffee. Then it was
discovered that the little saucepan had been forgotten. This was trying,