public and European buildings. The houses are all large and bright
with yellow tinged whitewash, and the place is completely embowered
in palms and other tropical trees. The native town lies hidden from
sight among trees on low ground to the left of the town. Everywhere
around the town the hills rise steep and high, wooded to the
summit. Altogether there are few more prettily situated towns than
the capital of Sierra Leone.

"It is wonderful," Mr. Goodenough said, "that generations
and generations of Europeans have been content to live and die in
that wretchedly unhealthy place, when they might have established
themselves on those lofty hills but a mile away. There they would
be far above the malarious mists which rise from the low ground.
The walk up and down to their warehouses and offices here would
be good for them, and there is no reason why Sierra Leone should
be an unhealthy residence. Unfortunately the European in Africa
speedily loses his vigor and enterprise. When he first lands
he exclaims, 'I certainly shall have a bungalow built upon those
hills;' but in a short time his energy leaves him. He falls into
the ways of the place, drinks a great deal more spirits than is
good for him, stops down near the water, and at the end of a year
or so, if he lives so long, is obliged to go back to Europe to
recruit.

"Look at the boats coming out."

A score of boats, each containing from ten to twelve men, approached
the ship. They remained at a short distance until the harbor master
came on board and pronounced the ship free from quarantine. Then
the boats made a rush to the side, and with shouts, yells, and