SANTA CRUZ DE TENERIFE

VIII. TO GRAND CANARY--LAS PALMAS, THE CAPITAL

IX. THE COCHINEAL--THE 'GALLO'--CANARY 'SACK'--ADIEU TO THE CANARIES

X. THE RUINED RIVER--PORT AND THE TATTERED FLAG

XI. SIERRA LEONE: THE CHANGE FOR THE BETTER



TO THE GOLD COAST FOR GOLD.


CHAPTER I.

PRELIMINARY: TRIESTE TO LISBON.

The glory of an explorer, I need hardly say, results not so much from
the extent, or the marvels of his explorations, as from the consequences
to which they lead. Judged by this test, my little list of discoveries
has not been unfavoured of fortune. Where two purblind fever-stricken
men plodded painfully through fetid swamp and fiery thorn-bush over the
Zanzibar-Tanganyika track, mission-houses and schools may now be
numbered by the dozen. Missionaries bring consuls, and consuls bring
commerce and colonisation. On the Gold Coast of Western Africa, whence
came the good old 'guinea,' not a washing-cradle, not a pound of
quicksilver was to be found in 1862; in 1882 five mining companies are
at work; and in 1892 there will be as many score.