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Flying Machines: construction and operation; a practical book which shows, in illustrations, working plans and text, how to build and navigate the modern airship by William James Jackman;Thomas Herbert Russell;Octave Chanute
page 57 of 237 (24%)
beams end to end, and under the joint thus made place
the 10-foot strip, with the planed-off ends downward.
The joint of the 20-foot pieces should be directly in the
center of the 10-foot piece. Bore ten holes (with a 1/4-
inch augur) equi-distant apart through the 20-foot
strips and the 10-foot strip under them. Through these
holes run 1/4-inch stove bolts with round, beveled heads.
In placing these bolts use washers top and bottom, one
between the head and the top beam, and the other between
the bottom beam and the screw nut which holds
the bolt. Screw the nuts down hard so as to bring the
two beams tightly together, and you will have a rigid
40-foot beam.

Splicing with Metal Sleeves.

An even better way of making a splice is by tonguing
and grooving the ends of the frame pieces and enclosing
them in a metal sleeve, but it requires more mechanical
skill than the method first named. The operation of
tonguing and grooving is especially delicate and calls
for extreme nicety of touch in the handling of tools, but
if this dexterity is possessed the job will be much more
satisfactory than one done with a third timber.

As the frame pieces are generally about 1 1/2 inch in
diameter, the tongue and the groove into which the
tongue fits must be correspondingly small. Begin by
sawing into one side of one of the frame pieces about 4
inches back from the end. Make the cut about 1/2 inch
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