in knickerbockers, footing it with knapsack on shoulder. But lady-
tourists from the other side of La Manche? Never! Be this as it may, it
is as well for my country-women, if any follow me hither, to avoid
insular eccentricities of dress. The best plan, before exploring wholly
remote regions of France, is to buy the neatest possible head-gear and
travelling-costume in Paris. Without meaning to be impertinent,
bystanders will stand agape at the sight of any strangers, English or
French. Even my young French companion was stared at, just because she
was not a native of the place. Very obligingly, she offered to fetch my
letters from the poste restante, and look out for photographs. As she
had spent some time in England and acquired certain habits of
independence, I accepted. But not twice!

The poor girl found so many eyes following her, that she took refuge in
the cathedral. As there chanced to be an abbe in the confessional
handy, she very sensibly seized the opportunity by the forelock, and
performed the duty of confession. But I did not permit her to roam
about alone after that.

Meantime, the medecin militaire and his wife had set out for the
Causses and the Canon du Tarn, and their enthusiasm but served to
heighten my own. That shooting of the rapids, too, I now heard of for
the first time, lent a spice of exhilarating hazard and adventure to
the excursion. They were going to shoot the rapids of the Tarn. Why
should I not follow their example?

Sorely tempted as I was to carry out the same programme, once more I
hesitated. I could obtain very little precise information as to the
real difficulties, if any, that beset the way, but everyone agreed that
it was not at all a commonplace journey--in other words, not a very