on beech trees, that you cannot at a distance tell ferns on the
mountains from young plantations, touched by autumn colour.

We have just dined at this delightful inn, where you and Fanny slept in
1818, kept as I am sure you remember by two sisters with sweet,
good-humoured countenances: most active, obliging people. I think the
most discontented of travellers--old growling Smollett himself, if he
could come from the grave in a fit of the gout--could not be
discontented at this inn. Fanny, Harriet, and I have just determined
that, if ever we are reduced to earn our bread, we will keep an inn like
this.

Lest you should think that all the little sense I had is gone to
nonsense, I must tell you that, during part of this day, we have been
very wise. When there came ugly bits of the road, Harriet read out
Humboldt's fifth volume; and I was charmed with it, and enjoyed it the
more from the reflection that Lucy can share this pleasure with us. She
has Humboldt, I hope; if not, pray get it for her. The account of the
venomous flies which _mount guard_ at different hours of the day is most
curious. Humboldt is the Shakespear of travellers; as much superior to
other travellers as Shakespear is to other poets. He seems to have at
once a _vue d'oiseau_ of one half of the world, and a perfect
recollection of the other half, so as to bring together from all parts
of the earth, and from all times, observations on the largest scale,
from which he draws the most ingenious and the most useful conclusions.
I will write to Madame Gautier to beg Humboldt to send to me portraits
of the insects which appear on the Orinoco at different hours of the day
and night, by which the natives mark the hours: it will make a fine
contrast to the Watch of Flora.