got one of the uppercut fillets had no cause to grumble. The
Filetto di Bue which we had for lunch to-day was the residue of the
upper cut, and, admirable as is a slice of cold beef taken from
this part of the joint, I think it is an excellent variation to
make a hot dish of it sometimes. On the score of economy, I am
sure that a sirloin treated in this fashion goes a long way
further."

"The Marchesa demolishes one after another of our venerable
institutions with so charming a despatch that we can scarcely
grieve for them," said Sir John. "I am not philosopher enough to
divine what change may come over the British character when every
man sits down every day to a perfectly cooked dinner. It is
sometimes said that our barbarian forefathers left their northern
solitudes because they hankered after the wine and delicate meats
of the south, and perhaps the modern Briton may have been led to
overrun the world by the hope of finding a greater variety of diet
than he gets at home. It may mean, Marchesa, that this movement of
yours for the suppression of English plain cooking will mark the
close of our national expansion."

"My dear Sir John, you may rest assured that your national
expansion, as well as your national cookery, will continue in spite
of anything we may accomplish here, and I say good luck to them
both. When have I ever denied the merits of English cookery?"
said the Marchesa. "Many of its dishes are unsurpassed. These
islands produce materials so fine, that no art or elaboration can
improve them. They are best when they are cooked quite plainly,
and this is the reason why simplicity is the key-note of English
cookery. A fine joint of mutton roasted to a turn, a plain fried