with meadow-sweet the turbulent, crystal-clear little river Vologne
flowed merrily, making dozens of tiny cascades, turning a dozen
mill-wheels in its course. All the air was fragrant with newly-turned
hay, and never, we thought, had Gerardmer and its lake made a more
captivating picture.

Excursions innumerable may be made from Gerardmer. We may drive across
country to Remiremont, to Plombieres, to Wesserling, to Colmar, to St.
Die, whilst these places in turn make very good centres for excursions.
On no account must a visit to La Bresse be omitted. This is one of the
most ancient towns in the Vosges. Like some of the villages in the Morvan
and in the department of La Nievre, La Bresse remained till the
Revolution an independent commune, a republic in miniature. The heads of
families of both sexes took part in the election of magistrates, and from
this patriarchal legislation there was seldom any appeal to the higher
court--namely, that of Nancy. La Bresse is still a rich commune by
reason of its forests and industries. The sound of the mill-wheel and
hammer now disturbs these mountain solitudes, and although so isolated by
natural position, this little town is no longer cut off from cosmopolitan
influence. The little tavern is developing into a very fair inn. In the
summer tourists from all parts of France pass through it, in carriages,
on foot, occasionally on horseback. Most likely it now possesses a
railway station, a newspaper kiosk, and a big hotel, as at Gerardmer!

As we drop down upon La Bresse after our climb of two hours and more, we
seem to be at the world's end. Our road has led us higher and higher by
dense forests and wild granite parapets, tasselled with fern and
foxglove, till we suddenly wheel round upon a little straggling town
marvellously placed. Deep down it lies, amid fairy-like greenery and
silvery streams, whilst high above tower the rugged forest peaks and