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In the Heart of the Vosges - And Other Sketches by a "Devious Traveller" by Matilda Betham-Edwards
page 20 of 211 (09%)
Remiremont is placed are some curious prehistoric stones. But more
inviting than the steep climb under a burning sun--for the weather has
changed on a sudden--is the drive to the Vallee d'Herival, a drive so
cool, so soothing, so delicious, that we fancy we can never feel heated,
languid, or irritated any more.

The isolated dwellings of the dalesfolk in the midst of tremendous
solitudes--little pastoral scenes such as Corot loved to paint--and
hemmed round by the sternest, most rugged nature, are one of the
characteristics of Vosges scenery. We also find beside tossing rivers and
glittering cascades a solitary linen factory or saw-mill, with the
modern-looking villa of the employer, and clustered round it the cottages
of the work-people. No sooner does the road curl again than we are once
more in a solitude as complete as if we were in some primeval forest of
the new world. We come suddenly upon the Vallee d'Herival, but the deep
close gorge we gaze upon is only the beginning of the valley within
valley we have come to see. Our road makes a loop round the valley so
that we see it from two levels, and under two aspects. As we return,
winding upwards on higher ground, we get glimpses of sunny dimpled sward
through the dark stems of the majestic fir-trees towering over our head.
There is every gradation of form and colour in the picture, from the ripe
warm gold barring the branches of the firs, to the pale silveriness of
their upper foliage; from the gigantic trees rising from the gorge below,
each seeming to fill a chasm, to the airy, graceful birch, a mere toy
beside it. Rare butterflies abound, but we see few birds.

The hardy pedestrian is an enviable person here, for although excellent
carriages are to be had, some of the most interesting excursions must be
made on foot.

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