covert with scattered homes of dalesfolk in sunny places and slanting
hills covered with pines. It is curious to reflect that St.
Marie-aux-Mines, mentioned as Markirch in ancient charts, did not become
entirely French till the eighteenth century. Originally the inhabitants
on the left bank of the Liepvrette were subjects of the Dukes of
Lorraine, spoke French, and belonged to the Catholic persuasion, whilst
those dwelling on the right bank of the river, adhered to the seigneury
of Ribeaupaire, and formed a Protestant German-speaking community.
Alsace, as everybody knows, was annexed to France by right--rather
wrong--of conquest under Louis XIV., but it was not till a century later
that Lorraine became a part of French territory, and the fusion of
races, a task so slowly accomplished, has now to be undone, if, indeed,
such undoing is possible!

The hotel here is a mere _auberge_ adapted to the needs of the
_commis-voyageur_, but our host and hostess are charming. As is the
fashion in these parts, they serve their guests and take the greatest
possible interest in their movements and comfort. We would willingly have
spent some days at Marie-aux-Mines--no better headquarters for
excursionizing in these regions!--but too much remained for us to do and
to see in Alsace. We dared not loiter on the way.

Everywhere we find plenty of French tourists, many of them doing their
holiday travel in the most economical fashion. We are in the habit of
regarding the French as a stay-at-home nation, and it is easy to see how
such a mistake arises. English people seldom travel in out-of-the-way
France, and our neighbours seldom travel elsewhere. Thus holiday-makers
of the two nations do not come in contact. Wherever we go we encounter
bands of pedestrians or family parties thoroughly enjoying themselves.
Nothing ruffles a French mind when bent on holiday-making. The good-nature,