beautiful fountain.

The cathedral, which faces the plaza, is larger than usual, and more
modern than most of the church buildings in the West Indies.

[Illustration: CATHEDRAL AT ARECIBO.]

AGUADILLA.

After a night spent in Arecibo we wish to hasten on to Aguadilla, but
the railroad, we find, will not carry us so far. It ends at Camuy, a few
miles west of Arecibo. Here we take a carriage for the remainder of the
journey.

[Illustration: DRYING AND HULLING COFFEE.]

The old-fashioned coaches are drawn by small ponies, and these brave
little animals carry us up hill and down hill, through deep mud holes,
over rocks, into and out of ruts, at a terrific pace.

We wonder that the carriage does not break and spill us out. The driver
lashes the poor beasts until it seems as if his arms must be lame, but
our protests have no effect on him.

Aguadilla, a quiet, peaceful little city of 5,000, lies on the western
coast. Here Columbus landed in search of water when he made his second
voyage.

He found a clear, rippling spring, with the water filled his casks, and
continued on his way. On the shore stands a cross marking the spot where