in which I had written several recipes in Urdu. The instruments were
either carried by the Saiad or myself in a _gooda, i.e._, untanned skin
of goat or sheep invariably used by travellers in this region.

The Malakand Pass (elevation 3,575 feet) is well wooded with brushwood
and stunted oak; grass and a goodly supply of water from springs are
procurable all through the year. The ascent is easy, and practicable
for heavy baggage. The descent into the Swat Valley is not nearly so
easy; beasts of burden as well as foot passengers have to pick out
their way, but a company of Bengal or Madras sappers would in a few
hours clear all difficulties sufficiently well to allow a mule battery
to keep up with infantry. When once in the plains this state of things
changes; where previously one had to avoid loose rocks and boulders, we
had now to search for a dry spot on which to alight. Both banks of the
rivers are irrigated; the soil is very rich, and well adapted for rice
cultivation. The valley has the reputation of being very unhealthy,
owing, I have no doubt, to the effluvia arising from the damp soil. A
Swatie is easily recognised by the sallow appearance he presents--a
striking contrast to his nearest neighbours.

The Swat river is about 50 feet wide, from three to four deep, and
flush with its banks. We crossed over in _jalas_ (_i.e._ inflated
skins) opposite the large village of Chakdara; the loads were taken
off, and our animals forded the stream with little or no difficulty.
Almost due north of our crossing, and distant eight miles, lay the
village of Kotigram. The valley, known as the Unch Plain, is somewhat
open, narrowing as we neared the village. Midway, about Uncha, we
passed several topes, or Buddhist remains. These topes are very
numerous, at least twenty were visible at one time, and some of great
size and in a very good state of preservation--more than one quite as