large as the famous tope of Mani Kiyala. A little further up the valley
towards the Katgola Pass, to the left of our route, there were numerous
excavated caves, in the side of the hill, in one of which the traveller
could take shelter during a passing shower. The assent to the Laram
Kotal is easy, and though the south face of this range is somewhat
denuded of both fir and pine, yet the soil is sufficiently rich to
allow of cultivation on its slopes. On this pass, whilst taking some
plane-table observations, I was within an ace of being detected from an
unexpected quarter. Four men armed with matchlocks showed themselves.
Much quicker than it takes me to record it, the rule or sight vane was
run up my long and open sleeve, and I began to pretend to be looking
about for stray roots; the intruders were thrown off the scent, and
after a while assisted the Saiad in looking for odd roots for the
supposed native doctor.

The descent from the pass, which registered 7,310 feet, to Killa Rabat
(3,900 feet) in the Panjkhora Valley, was for the first half of the
distance by a long and densely wooded spur, within an easy slope, but
on nearing the foot we found it very stony. Our party was met at the
entrance by the khan, and later on we were invited to dinner by him.
Long before this I had got quite used to eating with my fingers, but on
this occasion I must admit I found it unpleasant diving the fingers
into a richly made curry floating in grease, and having at the next
mouthful to partake of honey and omelet. The banquet lasted for an hour
or more, and I was beginning to feel uncomfortable sitting on the
ground in the one position so peculiar to Eastern nations, when the
hookah came to my rescue, and allowed of a change in position.

We forded the Panjkhora a little above the fort, and by 5 p.m. reached
Shahzadgai.