pensions--Amusements--Pension Colbert--Making up parties for the
Pyrenees--The Place Royale and the view--The castle of Pau and its
approaches--Origin of name--Historical notes--The towers--Visiting
hours--The tapestries--The wonderful bedstead--The delusive
tortoiseshell cradle--The "Tour de la Monnaie"--The park--The Billères
plains--Tennis and golf--The Route de Billères and the Billères
woods--French _sportsmen_--Hunting--Racing--Lescar and its old
cathedral--Fontaine de Marnières--The bands--The Parc Beaumont
--Ballooning--The Casino--Polo--The cemetery--The churches of
St. Martin and St. Jacques--The "old world and the new"--Rides and
drives--to Bétharram--The start--Peasants and their ways--Vines
trained by the roadside--Sour grapes--The "March of the Men of Garlic"
--Coarraze--Henry IV.'s Castle--Bétharram--The ivied bridge--The
inn--The "Via Crucis"--Assat and Gélos--The Coteaux--Perpignaa
--Sketching with a donkey-cart--Over the Coteaux to Gan--The
drive to Piétat--Picnicking and rejected attentions--The
church--Feather moss--Bizanos--Carnival time--"Poor Pillicoddy"
--"Idyllic Colbert."


CHAPTER II.

BAGNÈRES DE BIGORRE.

Backward spring--Hôtel Beau Séjour--Effect of the war of '70 on the
English colony--The "Coustous"--The Church of St. Vincent--Géruzet's
marble works--Donkeys--Up the Monné--Bains de Santé--Bains de Grand
Pré--Salut Avenue and baths--"Ai-ue, Ai-ue"--Luncheon--Daffodils--The
summit and the view--The "Castel-Mouly"--The Tapére--Mde. Cottin--Mont
Bédat--Gentians--The Croix de Manse--"The Lady's Farewell to her