Asinine Steed"--Market-day--The old iron and shoe dealers--Sunday--A
cat fight--The English Church--To the Col d'Aspin--"The Abbé's
Song"--Baudéan--Campan, its people and church--Wayside chapels--Ste.
Marie--The route to Gripp, &c.--Payole--The pine forest--The Col
d'Aspin--The view from the Monné Rouge--"The Plaint of the Weather-beaten
Pine"--The Menu at Payole--Hurrah for the milk!--Departures--Divine
music--Asté--Gabrielle d'Estrelle--The ivied ruins--The church--
Pitton de Tournefort--Gerde--The pigeon traps--The cattle market
--The Jacobin tower--Theatre--Grand Etablissement des Thermes
--Hospice Civil--Eglise des Carmes--Mount Olivet--Madame Cheval,
her cakes and tea--Bigorre in tears


CHAPTER III.

LOURDES.

The journey to Tarbes--The Buffet and the Nigger--Lourdes station in
the wet--Importunate "Cochers"--Hôtel des Pyrénées--"Red tape" and
Porters--Lourdes in sunshine--Sightseeing--The "Rue de la Grotte"--
"The Cry of the Lourdes Shopkeepers"--Candle-sellers--The
Grotto--Abject reverence--The Church--Saint Bernard--Interior of
church--The panorama--Admirable effect--Rue du Fort--The castle--The
view from the Tower--Pie de Mars, or Ringed Ousels


CHAPTER IV.

ARGELÈS.