_Embark on the Niger_.

"About mid-day the workmen having finished our canoe, the luggage was
presently put into it, and between twelve and one we embarked with our
people, and were launched out into the river. The direction of this branch
was nearly east and west; and we proceeded some distance down the stream
for the purpose of getting into the main branch of the Niger, where there
is deeper water. This object was soon attained, and we found it flowing
from north to south, through a rich and charming country, which seemed to
improve in appearance the further we advanced. We were propelled at a good
rate up a channel, which, from half a mile in breadth, gradually widened
to rather better than a mile. Beautiful, spreading, and spiry trees
adorned the country on each side of the river, like a park; corn, nearly
ripe, waved over the water's edge; large, open villages appeared every
half-hour; and herds of spotted cattle were observed grazing and enjoying
the cool of the shade. The appearance of the river, for several miles, was
no less enchanting than its borders; it was as smooth as a lake; canoes
laden with sheep and goats, were paddled by women down its almost
imperceptible current; swallows, and a variety of aquatic birds, were
sporting over its glassy surface, which was ornamented by a number of
pretty little islands.

"_Friday, June 25th_.--The most remarkable object which we saw on rising
this morning, was a rugged and romantic range of hills, appearing to the
eastward of our encampment; it is called _Engarskie_, from a country of
the same name in which the hills are situated, and which was formerly an
independent kingdom, but is now become a province of Yàoorie. At a little
before seven, A.M., our canoe was pushed off the sandy beach on which it
had been secured last evening, and propelled down a very narrow channel,
between a large sand-bank and the shore. This conducted us into the main