branch of the Niger, and we again admired its delightful and magnificent
appearance.

"We had proceeded only a few hundred yards when the river gradually
widened to two miles, and continued so as far as the eye could reach. It
looked very much like an artificial canal; the banks having the appearance
of a dwarf wall, with vegetation beyond. In most places the water was
extremely shallow, but in others it was deep enough to float a frigate.
During the first two hours of the day, the scenery was as interesting and
picturesque as can be imagined. The banks were literally covered with
hamlets and villages; fine trees, bending under the weight of their dark
and impenetrable foliage, everywhere relieved the eye from the glare of
the sun's rays, and, contrasted with the lively verdure of the little
hills and plains, produced the most pleasing effect. Afterwards, however,
there was a decided change; the banks, which before consisted of dark
earth, clay, or sand, were now composed of black rugged rocks; large
sand-banks and islands were scattered in the river, which diverted it into
a variety of little channels, and effectually destroyed its appearance.

"We had heard so unfavourable an account of the state of the river at one
particular place which we should have to pass, that our people were
compelled to disembark and walk along the banks a considerable way till we
had passed it, when we took them in again. We found the description to be
in no wise exaggerated; it presented a most forbidding appearance, and
yields only to the state of the Niger near Boossà in difficulty and danger.
On our arrival at this formidable place, we discovered a range of black
rocks running directly across the stream, and the water, finding only one
narrow passage, rushed through it with great impetuosity, over-turning and
carrying away everything in its course. Our boatmen, with the assistance
of a number of the natives, who planted themselves on the rocks on each