bank, and is on the shady side and much cooler. It has been very hot all
day. The reason I could not come the direct road from Murree is because
the ferry over the Jhelum lower down, was recently carried away and
twenty-six natives drowned. Sir G. Larpent's (of the 88th) baggage was
in the boat, and he lost it all. He had not crossed and had to go back
to Murree minus everything including servants. There is excellent
Mahseer fishing in this river, the fish attain the enormous size of
80lbs. weight and afford exciting sport; but I have no tackle with me,
and did not even bring a gun, as I thought I should be too seedy to do
anything but moon about. I did not then know the great exertion
necessary to reach Kashmir, an exertion which any man with bodily
infirmity would hardly venture on without first providing himself with
an undertaker. Upon making enquiries I find that all the Coolies and
supplies on the other road, have been sent over to this side, so I must
keep to it and not cross as I intended. In the evening a slim young
native came to me and offered to swim across the river for Bakhshish, "a
present." I promised it to him, and he ran a quarter of a mile up, and
plunged into the torrent, landing on the opposite side a little below
the bungalow. He then went up the river again, and swam down to this
side, no mean feat in turbulent water running as it did with tremendous
velocity. I gave him eight annas for it.


JULY 12th, "Sunday."--In the middle of last night a storm came on, I was
sleeping in the open air, and the lightning awoke me, it was beginning
to rain, and I had to move into the house. It was broad daylight when I
was called, and I felt disinclined to proceed. I said it would rain, and
I would halt. My boy said, "No Sir, no rain." I said the sun would come
out and it would be burning hot. He said, "No Sir, no sun." I felt it
was useless continuing the argument, so I got up and marched to Kunda,