eighteen miles, walking all the way. A hard march, nothing but steep
rough ascents, and corresponding descents, still keeping along the
river, but two or three hundred feet above it. My Coolies pointed out to
me a herd of "chiken" on a very high hill, at least four miles away. I
saw nothing, for even big trees at that distance were diminished to
very small objects, but did not dispute with them. They say uncivilized
man has wonderful sight, and if deer were there, he certainly has far
higher powers of vision even, than I had been led to expect. Met three
men leaving Kashmir, and exchanged remarks with them. Don't know who
they were. Caught sight of my destination from the top of one hill, and
was delighted to see it was quite close to me. But alas! several weary
miles of up and down and in and out had to be traversed before it could
be reached. This has several times happened to me, and I shall in future
put no faith in appearances. The Barahduree here is a two storied one,
standing I should think five hundred feet above the river, which is
here confined in a very narrow channel. I took the upper room which has
three sides and a roof, there being no wall facing the river, over which
there is a fine and rather extended view, the more distant mountains
being crowned with pine forests. Had neither sun nor rain while
marching, but soon afterwards the sun shone out, though heavy and
threatening clouds continued to hang about the horizon. As I write this
I hear the first roll of thunder, there will be another storm to-night.
The Maharajah's officials come to me at every stage to enquire my wants
and provide for the same. Other natives also come with an insane
request,--a medical prescription for a sick Bhai (or brother) who
always has fever, and is at a great distance. What possible use a
prescription could be to them I cannot decide. The storm came up just
before dinner, 6 p.m., and was rather sharp but soon over. I came up the
valley of the Jhelum, and I watched its course for some time before it
arrived. It subsequently struck the edge of the house and I was all