Under this heading we must give the particulars as to nature, _twist_,
_quality_ and _size_ of the silk, and the directions for the dyeing,
whether _bright_ or _souple_, and in what colors, also whether to be
weighted or not.

The size is generally ascertained (in practical work) by comparing it with
other silk of which the exact count is known. Another method is to count
the number of cocoon threads which a thread of the sample contains, adding
to that 1/3 or ¼, according to the quality of the silk; the result will be
the count in deniers. To obtain it in drams, divide the latter number by
17,3 as 1 dram is equal to 17,3 deniers.

Suppose we find 20 cocoon ends in a thread of silk: add 1/3, and we have
26-2/3 deniers, which, divided by 17,3 make 1,54 drams.

As silk is always more or less uneven, it is safer to count the cocoon
fibers of several threads and to take average thereof.

It requires the experience of years to judge with any degree of certainty
as to the origin and quality of silk, whether it be "classical," "extra,"
"sublime," etc.

There are machines wherewith to ascertain exactly the twist, that is, the
number of turns the silk has received in the throwing process.

In the dyeing we distinguish two great classes, of which the names
themselves give a good definition. "Bright" has a brilliant luster, while
"souple" has more of a dull, subdued appearance. To find out whether the
silk has been weighted in the dyeing process, we may compare it with other
silk of which the exact conditions are known, or we may burn a small