will allow a thread to be raised a little for examination, without danger
of its falling out of the fabric. In most cases it is easier to dissect the
filling side, that is, the interlacing of each warp-thread in the threads
of the filling system. With the help of the microscope or counting glass we
can easily determine over and under how many picks that thread passes and
the points of interlacing are accordingly marked on designing paper. This
being done for at least the length of a repeat warpways, we take it out and
examine the following thread, and so on until the repeat filling-ways is
complete. It is advisable to ascertain how many picks ahead or back of the
first examined thread the next following one binds before taking the former
out.

A knowledge of the construction of weaves as explained in the foregoing
chapters will enable us to determine the weave of a simple pattern by
merely raising a warp-thread with a needle on any point of interlacing and
counting off how many picks apart from this place it makes an impression.

2. LENGTH AND WIDTH OF THE FABRIC

To the length and width which the finished product is to have, we must add
a certain allowance for shrinkage and _taking up_ of warp during weaving.
It may differ from one to ten per cent., according to the texture and weave
of the fabric, and can be ascertained with sufficient accuracy by
stretching out and measuring a thread of warp and filling and comparing
their length with the respective measurements of the sample to be
reproduced.

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3. THE STOCK AND ITS DYE