obliged to beat up to windward, in the course of which operation we
passed a large barque running before the wind--the first ship we had
seen since leaving Tahiti--and also a fine whale, blowing, close to
us. We could not see the high land in the centre of the island, owing
to the mist in which it was enveloped, and there was great excitement
and much speculation on board as to the principal points which were
visible. At noon the observations taken proved that Tom was right in
his opinion as to our exact position. The wind dropped as we
approached the coast, where we could see the heavy surf dashing
against the black lava cliffs, rushing up the little creeks, and
throwing its spray in huge fountain-like jets high above the tall
cocoa-nut trees far inland.

We sailed along close to the shore, and by two o'clock were near the
entrance to the Bay of Hilo. In answer to our signal for a pilot a
boat came off with a man who said he knew the entrance to the harbour,
but informed us that the proper pilot had gone to Honolulu on a
pleasure trip.

It was a clear afternoon. The mountains, Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa,
could be plainly seen from top to bottom, their giant crests rising
nearly 14,000 feet above our heads, their tree and fern clad slopes
seamed with deep gulches or ravines, down each of which a fertilising
river ran into the sea. Inside the reef, the white coral shore, on
which the waves seemed too lazy to break, is fringed with a belt of
cocoa-nut palms, amongst which, as well as on the hill-sides, the
little white houses are prettily dotted. All are surrounded by
gardens, so full of flowers that the bright patches of colour were
plainly visible even from the deck of the yacht. The harbour is large,
and is exposed only to one bad wind, which is most prevalent during