travellers. The postboy struck a light, to enjoy the comfort of his pipe,
which he quickly put to his mouth, and of which the light and scent were
equally cheering and pleasant. We were so completely hemmed in by trees,
that their branches brushed strongly in our faces, as we rolled swiftly
along. Every thing was enveloped in silence and darkness: but the age of
banditti, as well as of chivalry--at least in Germany--appears to be
"gone." We sallied forth from the wood unmolested; gained again the high
road; and after discerning some lights at a distance, which our valet told
us (to our great joy) were the lights of BADEN, we ascended and
descended--till, at midnight, we entered the town. On passing a bridge,
upon which I discerned a whole-length statue of _St. Francis_, (with the
infant Christ in his arms) we stopped, to the right, at the principal
hotel, of which I have forgotten the name; but of which, one Monsieur or Le
Baron Cotta, a bookseller of this town, is said to be the proprietor.

The servants were yet stirring: but the hotel was so crowded that it was
impossible to receive us. We pushed on quickly to another, of which I have
also forgotten the name--and found the principal street almost entirely
filled by the carriages of visitors. Here again we were told there was no
room for us. Had it not been for our valet, we must have slept in the open
street; but he recollected a third inn, whither we went immediately, and to
our joy found just accommodation sufficient. We saw the carriage safely put
into the remise, and retired to rest. The next morning, upon looking out of
window, every thing seemed to be faëry land. I had scarcely ever before
viewed so beautiful a spot. I found the town of Baden perfectly surrounded
by six or seven lofty, fir-clad hills, of tapering forms, and of luxuriant
verdure. Thus, although compared with such an encircling belt of hills,
Baden may be said to lie in a hollow--it is nevertheless, of itself, upon
elevated ground; commanding views of lawns, intersected by gravel walks; of
temples, rustic benches, and detached buildings of a variety of