description. Every thing, in short, bespeaks nature improved by art; and
every thing announced that I was in a place frequented by the rich, the
fashionable, and the gay.

I was not long in finding out the learned and venerable SCHWEIGHÆUSER, who
had retired here, for a few weeks, for the benefit of the waters--which
flow from _hot_ springs, and which are said to perform wonders. Rheumatism,
debility, ague, and I know not what disorders, receive their respective and
certain cures from bathing in these tepid waters. I found the Professor in
a lodging house, attached to the second hotel which we had visited on our
arrival. I sent up my name, with a letter of introduction which I had
received from his Son. I was made most welcome. In this celebrated Greek
scholar, and editor of some of the most difficult ancient Greek authors, I
beheld a figure advanced in years--somewhere about seventy-five--tall,
slim, but upright, and firm upon his legs: with a thin, and at first view,
severe countenance--but, when animated by conversation, and accompanied by
a clear and melodious voice, agreeable, and inviting to discourse. The
Professor was accompanied by one of his daughters; strongly resembling her
brother, who had shewn me so much kindness at Strasbourg. She told me her
father was fast recovering strength; and the old gentleman, as well as his
daughter, strongly invited us to dinner; an invitation which we were
compelled to decline.

On leaving, I walked nearly all over the town, and its immediate environs:
but my first object was the CHURCH, upon the top of the hill; from which
the earliest (_Protestant_) congregation were about to depart--not before I
arrived in time to hear some excellently good vocal and instrumental music,
from the front seat of a transverse gallery. There was much in this church
which had an English air about it: but my attention was chiefly directed to
some bronze monuments towards the eastern extremity, near the altar; and