fenced off, if I remember rightly, by some rails from the nave and side
aisles. Of these monuments, the earliest is that of _Frederick, Bishop of
Treves_. He died in 1517, in his 59th year. The figure of him is recumbent:
with a mitre on his head, and a quilted mail for his apron. The body is
also protected, in parts, with plate armour. He wears a ring upon each of
the first three fingers of his right hand. It is an admirable piece of
workmanship: bold, sharp, correct, and striking in all its parts. Near this
episcopal monument is another, also of bronze, of a more imposing
character; namely, of _Leopold William Margrave or Duke of Baden_, who died
in 1671, and of the _Duchess_, his wife. The figure of Leopold, evidently a
striking portrait, is large, heavy, and ungracious; but that of his wife
makes ample amends--for a more beautifully expressive and interesting
bronze figure, has surely never been reared upon a monumental pedestal. She
is kneeling, and her hands are closed--in the act of prayer. The head is
gently turned aside, as well as inclined: the mouth is very beautiful, and
has an uncommon sweetness of expression: the hair, behind, is singular but
not inelegant. The following is a part of the inscription: "_Vivit post
funera virtus. Numinis hinc pietas conjugis inde trahit_." I would give
half a dozen ducats out of the supplemental supply of Madame Francs to have
a fine and faithful copy of this very graceful and interesting monumental
figure. As I left the church, the second (_Catholic_) congregation was
entering for divine worship. Meanwhile the heavens were "black with
clouds;" the morning till eleven o'clock, having been insufferably hot and
a tremendous thunder storm--which threatened to deluge the whole place with
rain--moved, in slow and sullen majesty, quite round and round the town,
without producing any other effect than that of a few sharp flashes, and
growling peals, at a distance. But the darkened and flitting shadows upon
the fir trees, on the hills, during the slow wheeling of the threatening
storm, had a magnificently picturesque appearance.