The Chemistry of Hat Manufacturing - Lectures Delivered Before the Hat Manufacturers' Association by Watson Smith
page 79 of 178 (44%)
page 79 of 178 (44%)
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there may be several that each is capable of yielding. We may consider
them as colour-giving principles, and so we term them _polygenetic_ colours. Polygenetic means capable of generating several or many. In the various colours and dyes we have all phases, and the monogenetic shades almost imperceptibly into the polygenetic. The mode of application of the two classes of colours is, of course, in each case quite essentially different, for in the case of the monogenetic class the idea is mainly either to dye at once and directly upon, the unprepared fibre, or having subjected the fabric to a previous preparation with a metallic or other solution, to fix directly the one colour on that fabric, on which, without such preparation, it would be loose. In the case of the polygenetic class, the idea is necessarily twofold. The dyeing materials are not colours, only colour generators. Hence in all cases the fabric must be prepared with the twofold purpose--first, of using a metallic or other agent, capable of yielding, with the dye material, the desired colour; and secondly, of yielding it on the fibre in an insoluble and permanent form. Now, though I have gone so far into this mode of classification, because it does afford some information and light, yet I can go no farther without getting into a territory that presupposes a knowledge and acquaintance with the chemical structure of the colouring matters as organic substances, which would be, at present, beyond us. I shall now turn to another mode of classification, which, if not so far-reaching as the other, is at least an exceedingly useful one. The two methods may be combined to a considerable extent. By the latter plan the colours may be conveniently divided into three groups: I., substantive colours; II., adjective colours; III., mineral and pigment colours. _Substantive Dyestuffs._--The substantive colours fix themselves readily and directly on animal fibres and substances, but only a few amongst |
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