houses and palaces to the southern end of Rhoda Island, whose tall
palms and cypress-trees rise above the silvery mist which still hangs
upon the water. On the west the high mud-banks are crowned with palms
and lebbek-trees as far as one can see. Below the bridge, their white
sails gleaming in the early sun, hundreds of Nile boats are waiting in
readiness for the time appointed for its opening. On both banks steady
streams of people pass to and fro to fill their water-skins or jars,
while children paddle in the stream or make mud-pies upon the bank as
they will do all the world over.

The water is very muddy and very smooth, and reflects every object to
perfection; for these early mornings are almost invariably still, and
the water is unruffled by the north wind, which, with curious
regularity, springs up before midday.

I have already spoken of the high lateen sail of the Nile boats, a
form of sail which, though beautiful, has not been devised for
_pictorial_ purposes. In every country and in every sea peculiarities
of build and rig are displayed in native vessels. This is not the
result of whim or chance, but has been evolved as the result of long
experience of local requirements and conditions, and in every case I
think it may be taken that the native boat is the one most suited to
the conditions under which it is employed. So on the Nile these lofty
sails are designed to overtop the high banks and buildings, and so
catch the breeze which would otherwise be intercepted. The build of
the boats also is peculiar; they are very wide and flat bottomed, and
the rudders are unusually large, so as to enable them to turn quickly
in the narrow channels, which are often tortuous. The bow rises in a
splendid curve high out of the water, and throws the spray clear of
its low body, for the Egyptian loads his boat very heavily, and I have