All wear their gayest clothing, and at night illuminations delight the
hearts of these simple people.

The principal feasts are the "MÅ«led-en-Nebbi," or birth of
Mohammed, and "El Hussanên," in memory of the martyred grandson of the
Prophet, and although they are Mohammedans the "Eed-el-Imam," or birth
of Christ, takes a high place among their religious celebrations.

But they have their fasts also, and Ramadan, which lasts for four
weeks, is far more strictly observed than Lent among ourselves, for
throughout that period, from sunrise to sunset, the Moslem abstains
from food or drink, except in the case of the aged or infirm, or of
anyone engaged upon work so arduous as to render food necessary, for
the Mohammedan does not allow his religion to interfere with his other
duties in life.

On the last day of Ramadan occurs a pretty observance similar to that
of All Souls' day in France; then everyone visits the tombs of their
relatives, laying garlands upon the graves and often passing the
night in the cemeteries in little booths made for the purpose.

You will have noticed how large a place _religion_ takes in the life
of the people, and in their idle hours no subject of conversation is
more common. To the average Mohammedan his religion is a very real
matter in which he fervently believes, and Allah is to him a very
personal God, whom he may at all times approach in praise or prayer in
the certain belief of His fatherly care. Nothing impresses a traveller
more than this tremendous belief of the Mohammedans in their Deity and
their religion; and though many people, probably from lack of
knowledge, hold the view that the Moslem faith is a debased one, it is