We slept under the trees, the air being pheasant, and no mosquitoes on
the hills. According to our usual plan of marching, by early dawn our
camp was in motion. After a cup of coffee and a bit of biscuit we were
on the way. The air was deliciously cool, and the path a little easier
than that of yesterday. We passed a number of villages, occupying very
picturesque spots among the hills, and in a few hours gained the upper
terrace, 3000 feet above the level of the sea. The plateau lies west of
the Milanje mountains, and its north-eastern border slopes down to Lake
Shirwa. We were all charmed with the splendid country, and looked with
never-failing delight on its fertile plains, its numerous hills, and
majestic mountains. In some of the passes we saw bramble-berries
growing; and the many other flowers, though of great beauty, did not
remind us of youth and of home like the ungainly thorny bramble-bushes.
We were a week in crossing the highlands in a northerly direction; then
we descended into the Upper Shire Valley, which is nearly 1200 feet above
the level of the sea. This valley is wonderfully fertile, and supports a
large population. After leaving the somewhat flat-topped southern
portion, the most prominent mountain of the Zomba range is Njongone,
which has a fine stream running past its northern base. We were detained
at the end of the chain some days by one of our companions being laid up
with fever. One night we were suddenly aroused by buffaloes rushing
close by the sick-bed. We were encamped by a wood on the border of a
marsh, but our patient soon recovered, notwithstanding the unfavourable
situation, and the poor accommodation.

The Manganja country is delightfully well watered. The clear, cool,
gushing streams are very numerous. Once we passed seven fine brooks and
a spring in a single hour, and this, too, near the close of the dry
season. Mount Zomba, which is twenty miles long, and from 7000 to 8000