feet high, has a beautiful stream flowing through a verdant valley on its
summit, and running away down into Lake Shirwa. The highlands are well
wooded, and many trees, admirable for their height and timber, grow on
the various watercourses. "Is this country good for cattle?" we inquired
of a Makololo herdsman, whose occupation had given him skill in
pasturage. "Truly," he replied, "do you not see abundance of those
grasses which the cattle love, and get fat upon?" Yet the people have
but few goats, and fewer sheep. With the exception of an occasional
leopard, there are no beasts of prey to disturb domestic animals. Wool-
sheep would, without doubt, thrive on these highlands. Part of the Upper
Shire valley has a lady paramount, named Nyango; and in her dominions
women rank higher and receive more respectful treatment than their
sisters on the hills.

The hill chief, Mongazi, called his wife to take charge of a present we
had given him. She dropped down on her knees, clapping her hands in
reverence, before and after receiving our presents from his lordly hands.
It was painful to see the abject manner in which the women of the hill
tribes knelt beside the path as we passed; but a great difference took
place when we got into Nyango's country.

On entering a village, we proceeded, as all strangers do, at once to the
Boalo: mats of split reeds or bamboo were usually spread for us to sit
on. Our guides then told the men who might be there, who we were, whence
we had come, whither we wanted to go, and what were our objects. This
information was duly carried to the chief, who, if a sensible man, came
at once; but, if he happened to be timid and suspicious, waited until he
had used divination, and his warriors had time to come in from outlying
hamlets. When he makes his appearance, all the people begin to clap
their hands in unison, and continue doing so till he sits down opposite