manure from the stable, or anything that must decay before
becoming plant food, be brought in contact with the roots. Again I
repeat my caution against planting too deeply--one of the
commonest and most fatal errors. Let the tree be set about as
deeply as it stood before removal. If the tree be planted early in
spring, as it should be, there will be moisture enough in the
soil; but when planting is delayed until the ground has become
rather dry and warm, a pail of water poured about its roots when
the hole has been nearly filled will be beneficial. Now that the
tree is planted, any kind of coarse manure spread to the depth of
two or three inches on the surface as a mulch is very useful.
Stake at once to protect against the winds. Do not make the common
mistake of planting too closely. Observe the area shaded by fully
grown trees, and you will learn the folly of crowding. Moreover,
dense shade about the house is not desirable. There should be
space for plenty of air and sunshine. The fruit from one well-
developed tree will often more than supply a family; for ten or
fifteen barrels of apples is not an unusual yield. The standard
apples should be thirty feet apart. Pears, the dwarfer-growing
cherries, plums, etc., can be grown in the intervening spaces. In
ordering from the nurseries insist on straight, shapely, and young
trees, say three years from the bud. Many trees that are sent out
are small enough, but they are old and stunted. Also require that
there should be an abundance of fibrous and unmutilated roots.

Because the young trees come from the nursery unpruned, do not
leave them in that condition. Before planting, or immediately
after, cut back all the branches at least one-half; and where they
are too thick, cut out some altogether. In removal the tree has
lost much of its root power, and it is absurd to expect it to