these seas sprang up, and would soon have driven us on the rocks if
we had not got our steam up quickly and struggled out to sea,
oranges and all, and away to Nelson, on the north coast of the same
island. Here we landed the seventh day after leaving Melbourne, and
spent a few hours wandering about on shore. It is a lovely little
town, as I saw it that spring morning, with hills running down
almost to the water's edge, and small wooden houses with gables and
verandahs, half buried in creepers, built up the sides of the steep
slopes. It was a true New Zealand day, still and bright, a
delicious invigorating freshness in the air, without the least
chill, the sky of a more than Italian blue, the ranges of mountains
in the distance covered with snow, and standing out, sharp and clear
against this lovely glowing heaven. The town itself, I must say,
seemed very dull and stagnant, with little sign of life or activity
about it; but nothing can be prettier or more picturesque than its
situation--not unlike that of a Swiss village. Our day came to an
end all too soon, and we re-embarked for Wellington, the most
southern town of the North Island. The seat of government is there,
and it is supposed to be a very thriving place, but is not nearly so
well situated as Nelson nor so attractive to strangers. We landed
and walked about a good deal, and saw what little there was to see.
At first I thought the shops very handsome, but I found, rather to
my disgust, that generally the fine, imposing frontage was all a
sham; the actual building was only a little but at the back, looking
all the meaner for the contrast to the cornices and show windows in
front. You cannot think how odd it was to turn a corner and see
that the building was only one board in thickness, and scarcely more
substantial than the scenes at a theatre. We lunched at the
principal hotel, where F--- was much amused at my astonishment at
colonial prices. We had two dozen very nice little oysters, and he